The History of Work Boots, Part 1: Tanners and Cobblers

No Cobblers Without Tanners

New France, 17th century. This is where leather-work begins. Master tanners transform animal hides (sheep, calf, cow, ox, seal, moose, deer, etc.) into leather using artisan methods. The hair is removed from the hides, which are then thinned to the desired thickness. Afterwards, the hides are immersed in vats containing tannin, a substance derived from oak bark. This soaking process can last up to nine months. Imagine that—nine months for a single batch of leather!

Once this process is complete, the leather is finally ready to be sent to cobblers, who rely on tanners for the material needed to make shoes.

From French Shoes to the "Savage Boot"

The artisan cobbler makes shoes in a small workshop set up in their home, using an awl (a type of tool used to pierce the leather), a curved knife, a needle, and a wooden piece resembling the shape of a foot. At that time, they crafted French shoes, moccasins, mules, and slippers. We’re still far from having footwear suited to withstand a Quebec winter!

Indeed, the climate of New France was nothing like that of France, so cobblers quickly adapted their models to create sturdy, warm footwear: the "savage boots." Regiments of soldiers soon equipped themselves at the cobbler’s workshop!

Transition to Industrialization

Manufacturers quickly multiplied. As the business flourished, more workers joined the master cobbler.

By the mid-19th century, innovations in tanneries brought about changes: vegetable tannin was replaced by chrome. This change shortened the tanning time to about six weeks, reduced production costs, and improved quality.

This advancement was just the first in a series of innovations that would soon completely transform the cobbler's trade and the footwear industry.